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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Angels beta 15-Feb-2004 At 7:33:29 AM Robin

Message

Hi Rupert,

I've done Angels twice. First time we started up the wrong crack (further to the right). When we retreated and finally got on route I attempted to climb it in Blunstones and with motorcyle gloves. Blunstones felt great but got jammed in the crack so they came off at the start. Motorcycle gloves lasted about 15m until I needed to use a cam and couldn't get my finger in the trigger. Conclusion: don't climb it in Blunstones and motorcycle gloves. It may be useful to tape your hands but even more useful to tape your ankles and wear socks.

Second time I did it we flew up it. If you are solid on cracks you can run it out a bit in 50m pitches. Taking a couple of extra cams for the belay speeds up the belay set up.

I guess the main thing with Angels is that you have to be strong on crack climbing, and the stronger you are the easier it is. The first pitch is a good indicator. If you struggle on the first pitch then you're in for a very long day.

Robin