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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Etiquette (how to be a climbing dickhead) 26-Jan-2009 At 12:14:58 PM skink
Message
On 26/01/2009 rod wrote:
>with the
>point on tethering your belayer there is the fact that it reduces the belayer's
>range of choices in being able to avoid falling rock

I have been hit by falling rock because I was not tethered. When rock and your leader fall simultaneously (think hold breaking - in my case a briefcase sized piece of layback flake), the belay coming tight decides where you can go to avoid the falling bits. If the fall is big and/or your leader substantially heavier, you have no control over where you go as stuff comes down (stuff = rock, gear, or worst case, your lead climber). And this risk doesn't go away as the leader goes higher.

So as usual, whether to tether or not depends. Ask yourself:
- how bomber is the rock and pro (tho my incident occurred on a bolted sport-climb)?
- is there a safe place to position the belayer (under an overhang, in close if the climb is steep to overhanging)?
- how heavy is the belayer compared to the leader?
- how big a fall is likely?

So to get back on topic, throwing around advice on climbing safety after rapping down a route someone is leading is IMHO dickhead behaviour.

There are 32 replies to this topic.

 

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