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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Author
The 2008/09 Hit List....

JimboV10
3/12/2008
3:25:57 PM
Its almost like the Ministry of Sound Annual now!

Last update was...

NEW TICKS
De La Soul (26) 11 shots over 3 years... 3rd shot this year
Race Eater (V8) cant remember, was a while ago
Butt Eater (V8) 4 shots?
Klaupsterpaule (V7) second shot
Bitch Slap (V7) 3 or 4 shots... repeated 3 times since

On 28/05/2007 Super Saiyan wrote:
>6 Month Update...
>
>TICKED
>Static Ticking Rampage (22) 2nd Shot
>Conflict of Interest (21) Onsight
>Hueco Dreaming (25) 5 Shots
>The Nevin Rule (V7) 5 Shots
>
>ATTEMPTED
>Bloodline (22)
>Pigs in a Blanket (26)
>Circus Jerkus (V7)
>This Spurting Life (26)
>
>Routes
>
>>All the Way to Eleven (22)
>>Full Metal Vengeance (23)
>>Variance (23)
>>Spinal Tap (23)
>>Weaveworld (23)
>>Sandinista (23)
>>Cosmic Psycho (24)
>>Warped Spasm (24)
>>Freedom Fighter (27)
>>Middle Path (28)
>>
>> Boulders
>
>>Rave Heart (V8)
>>Spanking The Monkey Bars (V8)
>>Body Eater (V8/9)
>>Booges 9 (V9??)
>>X-Treme Cool (V9)
>>Cave Man (V9/10)
>>Krusti (V9/10)
>>Cave Heart (V11)

Well since then I have managed to knock off
Spanking The Monkey Bars (V8)
X-Treme Cool (V9)
Circus Jerkus (V7)

Bloodline is still kicking my @ss (hate that route!!!), I still cant do the move on Rave Heart and on Cave Man (weak and no core tension!!)

The goal for 2009 is to tick 8a and 8A, whilst cleaning up the list above... So far I have pencilled in Cave Heart as the 8A as its a link up of X-Treme Cool V9 (Done), Easy Does It V4 (Done) and Aphrodite V7 (Not yet) but I'm unsure of which route to go for...

My personal preference is shortish, slightly overhung, well placed bolts, not too run out, bouldery ok.. any suggestions? (Yes I am a sport climbing pussy, but im workin on my trad too)

Anyone else put together their Xmas Wish List?

evanbb
3/12/2008
3:56:23 PM
On 3/12/2008 JimboV10 wrote:
>Anyone else put together their Xmas Wish List?

Sure. Mine has a somewhat different flavour...

Integral Crack at Booroomba. 48m of grade 20 slabby/cracky goodness.
Better Than Ben Hur - about 200m, up to 20, trad classic.
The Candlestick - Tassie Sea stack, 110m 16
Old Baldy link up - Room To Move into Excalibur. 190m, 16/17
The Geryon Traverse, not sure which direciton yet. Tassie Wilderness Alpine Epic
Also want a crack at The Finger Of Blame at Cape Raoul, but I'm not at all confident of that one.

If things go well these will all be done and dusted by mid january! After that, hmmm. Maybe I need to aim higher? Echo Crack at Katoomba has always caught my eye, but 24 might be pushing it a bit.
I also like the look of the "unfashionably wide" crack above Possum at Booroomba. Allegedly 18, but we'll see about that. It's just such an awesome line and position.

kezza
3/12/2008
4:03:24 PM
I plan to scramble up a few rock faces. a few HUGE rock faces! Roll around in some dirt while I'm there.
I only have eyes for Miss Bunny Bucket.
psd
3/12/2008
4:23:59 PM
On 3/12/2008 evanbb wrote:
>Old Baldy link up - Room To Move into Excalibur. 190m, 16/17

This sounds awesome evanbb - what is the rock quality like? I am going to look up my wolgan guide tonight to check it out ... (every time I have been to the wolgan it rains)

JimboV10
3/12/2008
4:44:46 PM
On 3/12/2008 evanbb wrote:
>On 3/12/2008 JimboV10 wrote:
>>Anyone else put together their Xmas Wish List?
>
>Sure. Mine has a somewhat different flavour...
>
>Integral Crack at Booroomba. 48m of grade 20 slabby/cracky goodness.
>Better Than Ben Hur - about 200m, up to 20, trad classic.
>The Candlestick - Tassie Sea stack, 110m 16
>Old Baldy link up - Room To Move into Excalibur. 190m, 16/17
>The Geryon Traverse, not sure which direciton yet. Tassie Wilderness Alpine
>Epic
>Also want a crack at The Finger Of Blame at Cape Raoul, but I'm not at
>all confident of that one.
>
>If things go well these will all be done and dusted by mid january! After
>that, hmmm. Maybe I need to aim higher? Echo Crack at Katoomba has always
>caught my eye, but 24 might be pushing it a bit.
>I also like the look of the "unfashionably wide" crack above Possum at
>Booroomba. Allegedly 18, but we'll see about that. It's just such an awesome
>line and position.

Wicked... The Candlestick sounds awesome!

kezza
3/12/2008
4:55:19 PM
Maybe a dose of harden the truck up will be on order for you James. Then you can climb some hard run out trad and realise you've been wasting so many youthful years playing it safe on bolts.
:)

evanbb
3/12/2008
5:04:38 PM
On 3/12/2008 psd wrote:
>(every time I have been to the wolgan it rains)

Me too! And quite often hail as well. And sleet. Excalibur gets heaps of traffic, so the rock should be pretty good? It gets a bit dirty towards the top, and requires a pretty cool head by all accounts. I've rapped that face and it was pretty spooky.

wallwombat
3/12/2008
5:07:53 PM
On 3/12/2008 evanbb wrote:

>I also like the look of the "unfashionably wide" crack above Possum at
>Booroomba. Allegedly 18, but we'll see about that. It's just such an awesome
>line and position.

You may be confusing Functor 22 with Sipple 18. The wide one up above Kilowatt is Functor. It was climbed by Joe Friend and does look awesome. Sipple is good too. It's around the same area. I climbed it in the early 1990's and remember it being a pretty good 18.

But I'd say if the line really jumps out at you, you are referring to Functor.

wallwombat
3/12/2008
5:09:45 PM
On 3/12/2008 psd wrote:
> (every time I have been to the wolgan it rains)

Me three.
Winston Smith
3/12/2008
5:12:06 PM
On 3/12/2008 psd wrote:
>On 3/12/2008 evanbb wrote:
>>Old Baldy link up - Room To Move into Excalibur. 190m, 16/17
>
>This sounds awesome evanbb - what is the rock quality like? I am going
>to look up my wolgan guide tonight to check it out ... (every time I have
>been to the wolgan it rains)

Room to Move is an excellent route. After the gymnastic grade 20, post-apocalyptic landslide chin-up start it's 45m of bomber jam crack - although my second decided to layback it. In fact it's one of the most perfect handcracks I've ever climbed. We rapped after that but the 20m second pitch is supposed to be equally good.

pmonks
3/12/2008
5:12:38 PM
On 3/12/2008 psd wrote:
>On 3/12/2008 evanbb wrote:
>>Old Baldy link up - Room To Move into Excalibur. 190m, 16/17
>
>This sounds awesome evanbb - what is the rock quality like?

Dunno about Room To Move but Excalibur has 15m of total choss then 70-odd metres of great rock then 15m of good but dirty rock (due to run-off from the top).

>I am going
>to look up my wolgan guide tonight to check it out ... (every time I have
>been to the wolgan it rains)

Yeah tell me about it - I've done more climbing trips to the Wolgan than I've done routes in the Wolgan! It got to the point where my climbing partners banned me from going anywhere near the Blue Mts whenever they had a trip planned out there. Supposedly the Wolgan has less rainfall than the upper mts, but I'm calling bullshit.
J.C.
3/12/2008
5:17:58 PM
Hit list for the next month;
-the bunny with madame K
- a few cracks here & there
- a big spiky thin thing in tassie known as the tote
- a bigger wider spky thing is tassie known as the feders
should be a bit of fun

wallwombat
3/12/2008
5:32:56 PM
The Fisher-Mcleod route on the South Face of Sabre.

A few routes in the Warrumbungles.

The Janicepts at Piddo. I have walked under it a thousand times. Might as well give it a go.

Besides those three, I'm pretty open to anything.

I'm not a big fan of hit lists as you normally end up getting bugger all done and looking like a dick.



wallwombat
3/12/2008
5:34:26 PM
On 3/12/2008 Josh Caple wrote:
>Hit list for the next month;
>-the bunny with madame K
>- a few cracks here & there
>- a big spiky thin thing in tassie known as the tote
>- a bigger wider spky thing is tassie known as the feders
>should be a bit of fun

Is that your abseiling hit list, Josh?
J.C.
3/12/2008
9:32:34 PM
no way thats crazy man, thats my belaying hitlist. no way would i abseil im not that extreme.

wallwombat
3/12/2008
9:42:43 PM
You've abseiled on The Dogface and the North Wall of Buffalo. What are you talkin about, man?
You are rad.
psd
4/12/2008
9:08:18 AM
On 3/12/2008 orwell wrote:

>
>Room to Move is an excellent route. After the gymnastic grade 20, post-apocalyptic
>landslide chin-up start ...

so pretty much the same as your average piddo low-grade trad route then?

>it's 45m of bomber jam crack

excellent .... maybe even worth risking another tent-bound torrential rainy long weekend for ...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/12/2008
12:30:29 PM
On 3/12/2008 Josh Caple wrote:
>no way thats crazy man, thats my belaying hitlist. no way would i abseil
>im not that extreme.

You need to see this* then mate, in order to improve the grades from belay to abseil.











(*not recommended as the best vid I have seen).

D.Lodge
5/12/2008
1:36:25 PM
Definanteley want to do dance of life on Taipan and Father Oblivion is high up on that list too. Simey any beta?

Pat
5/12/2008
1:41:22 PM
Cool video M9 (in a Magnum P.I. kind of way), but first Josh will need to get a Black Ford Bronco and a
cheesy backing track. Can he do it?

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
There are 37 messages in this topic.

 

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