BOA (HMS)Keylock Screwgate 25 10 8 kN
Steve's favourite belay screwgate.
Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|why are old routes so hard? e.g. Kingdom Come
||Monday, 10 November 2008 At 12:04:33 PM
|>why are old routes so hard?
I may have it worked out - though I used an 'aid' or two in the maths in order to get to all add up
I had to estimate the average number of balls of modern sport climbers as there are no hard numbers
And I basically made up a figure for 'Law's More' as the expansion rate seems very non-linear . . .
Because you climb it years ago, at a quantum level. you are intrinsically linked to the climb atomically.
Now due to passage of time and conservation of energy - lets face it, the rocks been resting all this
time while you've been running around - it now has more potential energy than you in the equation . . .
So where as before your 'youthful exuberance' easily overpowered the rock, these days it drains you . .
Add the effects of erosion - climb gets harder, you get softer - and it widens the difficulties further . . .
When these things are actually realised mid-climb (or mid-life) the collapsing wave functions can all
get a bit much for reality so it spits you off and pops off for a nice cup of tea and a lie down . . .
I recall a discussion on the chuckhumans forum about climbs concerned about the flailings of modern
routers and they thought maybe they were at fault but they were in denial - rings didn't help much . . .
The passive-aggressive nature of some helmeteers has caused issues for some less stable climbs
but in general they feel little threat from them if push came to shove as they have safety in numbers.
So what can we do about all this? Feign ignorance - 'think' that maybe you didn't do the climb at all,
pretend to do something else then sneakily 'find' yourself climbing before it has a chance to realise.
This will hopefully force the climb back to being a Schrodingers box type affair where you actually both
simultaneously climb and don't climb the route in a super-imposed state of fluxing improbability . . .
What you do from there is of course up to you, but if things get too difficult you can pull on the cat . . .
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