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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Removing the 2-Oct-2008 At 7:39:08 PM wattie
Message
I like you"re idea there Hipster, maybe we could have some fireworks and a brass band at the moment the hammer strikes the glue, and we can sell the rights the channel 9 for a couple of mil.
But in all seriousness, the question that came up from our original discussion was how certain we can be certain that the original hold is completely gone. There is no way in hell that the lump of glue there now is anything like the original not only have I seen that bad boy, but I've seen the picture of wolfgang holding the original and its looks nothing like it. In fact the original from what I can ascertain from said classic picture (complete with short shorts and porn mo) the hold looks like a small possibly flat crimp on top of a bum type formation, not something that would break easily especially given that it is bullet hard sandstone quartzose.
So we have 3 scenarios:
1)The original broke completely and we'll have to make do with the glue
2) the original broke partially but could be climbed in its original form after removal of the glue
3) The original is still there and never broke at all and in fact the glue was just Pollit's legacy to Australian climbing.
Given scenarios 2 or 3, would it not be better to have the route in "natural" unadulterated form? Rather than using what is basically a point of aid.

There are 19 replies to this topic.

 

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