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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Barrenjoey Crack Retrobolting 30-Jan-2004 At 5:52:59 PM Estey

Message

I climbed at BJ late last year. I don't recall seeing the offending bolts at the time so the retrobolt must be pretty recent.

IMHO the route 'abseil wall' is poorly protected ... sure you can put a few pieces in, but the quality of the placements and the relatively soft rock has kept me away from the sharp end. Generations of Sydney climbers have managed to get by without the bolts ... mostly on toprope. However this doesn't justify the retrobolt. There are heaps of well protected routes of a similar grade at the crag. So if somebody decides to chop em (without doing further damage) they would have my support.

By the way most of the popular routes at BJ have been systematically rebolted with gluein, stainless steel machine bolts. Seems to have been bolt for bolt with the old mild steel carrots neatly removed. Hat's off to whoever did the work. The new bolts are metric so it is a little hard to fiddle on boltplates (but not impossible).