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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Pulling the pin: Clean climbs that rely on fixed.. 16-Sep-2008 At 7:44:11 AM skink

Message

On 16/09/2008 fish boy wrote:
>..gear. Ozy is my main interest regarding this, Some pitches rely heavily
>on olf pins and fixed nuts. If the piece were pulled on lead and a clean
>placement found or a hook spotted, is this an ok thing to do?

No, go open your own routes in your own style, don't try and alter a climb you did not open to suit your style.

>
>If I have to ask....?

Conscience?

>
>I would love to climb the third pitch on ozy in particular clean instead
>of hauling on rusty timebombs.

If you want to do some good - replace the timebombs with stainless - maybe every 2nd or 3rd on the ladder, for safety sake but to retain the character of the original ascent

>
>Say these moves are possible, but only if using tiny gear (sliding nuts,
>hand placed peckers) that not many people have, does it matter? I dont
>think so.

Ozy is a middle of the road aid route - what you are proposing is turning it into a contrived 'head' route - why?

>
>Anywhoo, just thinking...

Think some more...