Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Barrenjoey Crack Retrobolting 24-Jan-2004 At 1:18:12 PM dantheman
Message
Can any one shed any light on why a grade 16 crack on Abseil Wall at Barrenjoey has been retrobolted ?? Who is responsible for this ?? What should be done ??
I have several issues with this action:
1/ The crack has always been a trad climb and was put up in the 1970s. Have the bolters gained permission from the first asscencionist to do this (would you give permission for 5 bolts to be plced next to your crack climb)? Have they discussed it with others ? Doest it fit the character and ethics of the crag ? (i think not, Barrenjoey is trad wherever possible and at times scary if you are not solid as a typical placement is a cam in a flaring sandy horizontal crack.) Are these bolters acting unilaterally with out consideration of others ?
2/ Despite the guide description of the climb stating that the gear was thin I led the climb on gear and thought that the protection was sufficient (not always the case at Barrenjoey!!), including several bomber pieces and several that i would prefer not to fall on but which i judged to be ok. Perhaps the description comes from a time before cams?? Also bolts had been placed right next to several of the bomber natural placements.
3/ The bolts are shiny new fixed hangers(with the bolt sticking out past the hanger by up to 2 inches! How far in are these bolts?) which are very obvious and in your face. Most climbs with bolts at Barrenjoey are inobvious glue in carrots. Whilst this may not be an issue at other crags Barrenjoey is a very popular multi use national park with on going access issues. Does this sort of new bolting potentially compromise access by making the impact of climbers all the more obvious to the general public and the land managers ?
4/ The bolt itself has an allen key slot in its end and do not appear to be glued in. Is this a Dynabolt or expansion bolt ?? How good are these in sandstone ?? I read that this type of bolt should not be used in a soft rock like sandstone and hence all of the glue in bolts at ather sandstone crags.
5/ The bolting of this enjoyable crack has dramatically changed the character of the climb whether you clip the bolts or not. Knowing you could clip the bolt if you thought you needed to has reduced the commitment needed to do this climb and reduced the grade and emotions felt if climbing it on the bolts.
I felt pretty angry when i saw this despoilment of the crag and i still feel that the bolts should be removed. I would prefer to do this with the knowledge and approval of the bolters or at least the support of the climbing community in general. So please respond to this. After all if everyone thinks the bolts should stay perhaps i should re-examine my opinion........

There are 5 replies to this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints