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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Heads up - booty 9-Apr-2008 At 1:46:08 PM Richard

Message

On 9/04/2008 westie wrote:
>On 9/04/2008 simey wrote:
>>It is graded 15 in the new guide.
>
>mmm - yea. about that. The crack is great but not easy to get gear into
>for most of it (pretty squeezy) and the smears are a bit dodgy.

I've alwaysed like this climb, while it some appear to hate it. The climbing is a bit unusual, and you've got to avoid wedging yourself in the crack. You need big gear, esp cams, then the pro is fine. I love the hand jam move at the top, about the only jam I can do. it's one of those climbs, where if you do the move the hard looking but correct techncial way, it turns out to actually be an easy move, but if you wimp out and try and to grovel up it, you'll be sh*t scared.