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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Araps Bolting Gone Silly 18-Mar-2008 At 9:18:04 AM mankrambler
On 18/03/2008 One Day Hero wrote:

>So, by your logic, if someone were to run fifteen rings up D minor they
>should be left in to avoid further damage to the rock?

no, obviously they should not be put in in the first place, because there is loads natural gear on that climb. Clearly I think we would have to remove the bolts in the extreme case of a bolt ladder appearing on D-minor! I was really referring to the odd bolt that was used on the first ascent (and has now become redundant due to cams or whatever), rather than the extreme case.

Obviously, inappropriate bolts have been placed in the past, but I think we can move on from those times. And I think the ethic is good enough already that no one would consider 15 rings up D-minor. They have a no bolt ethic in the trad crags of the UK--that is absolutely no bolts at all no matter how dangerous the route would be. Not only would any bolt be chopped, so would the bolter's nuts! (and the latter I would guess would be more of a deterrent).

So I suppose by taking out the bolts, you mean to punish those who put them there against local ethics? that is very well but is it the best way to instill local ethics so it doesn't happen again? Maybe not? maybe the bolter will just get angry and try again.

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