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Trad routes as projects? 29-Feb-2008 At 12:42:46 PM f_abe

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As usual, chockstoners have banded together to protect one of their own and disected my every word to shoot me down in flames.
Just because I disagree with your opinions doesn't make me right. And vice versa. All I was saying (except for directly and personally attacking the first ascensionist along with anyone who knows him!) is that I reckon the bolts were superfluous given the style of climb, regardless of who put it up.

People can do what they want but once a bolt is placed you have created something that dictates the future, whether it be a badly placed carrot at Araps, a nice sport route at the Gallery, some 'designer danger' run out on Taipan or even a worthless (in MY opinion, you can all go and climb whatever takes your fancy!) buttress in the depths of Crag X.

I am not talking about any other route (although I have plenty of opinions about some other recent 'developments', but I'll leave them for now just in case I meet one of you in the Gramps one day and you lynch me and run me outta the state for good) simply because iut is far too big an issue to ever resolve.

Everyone has different views. These were mine. Perhaps I should just accept that the Gramps need to be climbed out by 2010.

Style has been deteriorating for decades and I'm the first to admit that I have made many ethical transgressins where my desire to tick a route saw style go out the window. But as a happy bottom-feeder (although if you want new routes check out the road between Millenium and Crystal Palace, feel free to claim them if you must;-) I've never dictated to anyone else how to climb. I'm not saying it's wrong to, I just reckon that care needs to be taken in this regard.

Sport routes are great. So are mixed routes. But maybe, just maybe, leaving some lines all trad could also be good?
And for the record, anyone who thrutches up a route tlike that without falling is doing pretty damn well.