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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Author
Anyone for Tennis Elbow
jjobrien
5/01/2004
12:32:19 PM
Anyone have advice on the treatment of Tennis Elbow? I've tried a course of anti-inflam and even had a cortisone injection. I've been taking it easy for a while but still no sign of improvemnet, has anyone had experience with this.

rodw
5/01/2004
1:17:14 PM
Just got over a bout myself, not much helped, just lowered intensity of climbing (should have just rested all together though but didnt want to.) until it went away.

shiltz
5/01/2004
2:14:15 PM
I had problems with this early last year. I strapped the elbow every night to encourage blood flow and used some anti-inflammatory cream. I also didn't do any training and only climbed easy routes for about a month.
climbingjac
5/01/2004
5:15:20 PM
Not being a medical professional, and not knowing anything about Tennis Elbow, I can't advise you.

I can, however, tell you that a good anti-inflam cream is "Arnica Cream". You can get it from health food stores.

jac
snowman
5/01/2004
10:16:09 PM

Sounds like you've been to a Doctor? I'd recommend seeing a Physio. to get it treated.

I did (well ok, eventually) and now I'm back to climbing full strength (that's not saying much though).

He didn't make me stop climbing either, told me to take it easy for a bit and gave me some stretches and exercises to do while it was bad. Once it started to come good I could slowly lift the intensity of the exercises and climbing.

Good luck.

G.
Julian
7/01/2004
4:41:08 PM
hi there.

tennis elbow is actually two conditions- lateral epicondylitis and lateral epicondylosis. the first is inflammatory, the other is not. without going into too much detail, if you have had it for more than a few weeks then the former has, at the very least, begun to morph into the latter (though they can co-exist happily!). as such anti-inflams of any kind will have little or no effect. cortisone is effectivly the mother load of anti-inflams, though ineffective none the less. Gp's dont actually know that much musculoskeletal pathology; they have enough to remember already! poor buggers. pity your Gp didnt refer you to somebody who did know and save you having some nasty drugs.

manual therapy can be effective, though not by itself. the problem is that the tendon where the extensors insert into your elbow (this assumes that you are not confusing tennis elbow with golfers elbow) is weeker than the muscle pulling on it. so you must strengthen the tendon without strengthening the muscle. an eccentric exercise program coupled with some stretches (less important than most think) and some altered climbing habits (you dont necessarily need to stop) will usually see you right.

i am not too sure where you live but if you need somebody in melbourne i can help you out. otherwise if you let me know your location i can probably get details of somebody close to you who i know to be good.

goodluck

julian saunders
jjobrien
8/01/2004
12:31:05 AM
Thanks heaps Julian, no I live near Noosa but work in Melb a bit. I am 43 and trying not to believe that this is the beginning of the end. So you mean a physiotherapist? I know a physio up here, sounds like I should see him, I'll call him tomorow. The GP didn't mention physio. I've been going easy on the climbing, almost none, funny things is, it doesn't hurt while climbing, so it would be easy to do too much, but it would kill in the evening and morning. Can I get over this condition? (golfers elbow? is that a physio joke?)
Dalai
8/01/2004
8:36:42 AM
Hi JJ,

no, golfers elbow isn't a joke (I was forced to stop with both elbows suffering that fate). It refers to where the pain is displayed - pain on the outside of the elbow (tennis) and the inside medial (golf). They are named this for the sports which the sports medicine people see the injury mostly.
Julian
8/01/2004
9:11:43 AM
the pain history that you say you have certainly points toward lateral epicondylosis. assuming it is on the outside of your elbow(?); it is medial epicondylosis if it is on the inside. the eccentric wieghts program has been about for a few years now but not all manual therapists know about it, perhaps your physio does. the main recommendation for climbing is DO NOT CRIMP. 100% NO CRIMPING. this will be hardest thing but it will be great for your climbing and injury rate. oops...late for work.

let me know how you go.

julian
mikl law
8/01/2004
12:21:37 PM
DO NOT CRIMP
Is that because you have to pull your wrist backwards to crimp?
I can't anyway
Mikl
gfdonc
8/01/2004
1:16:58 PM
I'm interested in this thread (oh, and hi Julian). Have had soreness/sensitivity in the elbow - more on the inside - for some months now, not initially climbing related (I blame volleyball) but now my interest has piqued back into climbing it seems to be aggravated a but by the pullups routine.
.. perhaps because I'm doing pullups on the edge of a flat beam (rafter of my shed) rather than curling my fingers around a bar. Anyone have experiences with this? Is it bad for me?
climbingjac
8/01/2004
1:26:44 PM
Hi "gfdonc"

I see you're from Victoria? Do you live in or near Melbourne? If so, perhaps it would be beneficial for you to go and see Julian, so he can take a look at your injury in person. From your post, it seems that you've met him before, so I'm sure you know that he's very good at what he does, and at getting us climbers back on track as soon as possible, without further aggravating the injury. Go see him, and find out once and for all what's wrong with that elbow of yours.

Cheers - jac

Julian
8/01/2004
1:27:54 PM
hey mike how are you? loved the wedding photos, thanks. re crimping; when you crimp, due to biomechanics which are not easy to explain briefly, you have to stabilise your wrist anteriorly (ie on the front). two muscles do this. on the thumb side you have flexor carpi radialis and on the othe you have flexor carpi ulnaris. due to the way your hand is shaped your are forced to stabilise more on the ulnaris side, especially the further you reach to the side. (mmm, i just realised that i dont thik i wrote in the last message that this is specific to medial pathology, not lateral; golfers rather than tennis elbow). most medial eopicondlopathy is related to the ulnaris tendon insertion. open hand does not activate this muscle nearly as much. as such there is less chance of an imbalance being created between the strength of the muscle versus that of the tendon.

sorry, next patient just arrived. best go.

julian
jjobrien
8/01/2004
2:21:38 PM
Yes , the pain is on the outside, then it's Tennis Elbow , not Golfers or Drinkers Elbow or whatever.
Julian
8/01/2004
5:55:40 PM
ok. disregard the crimping advice. there are a few other things it could be, but lateral epicondylosis is the most probable. try and isolate what exactly it is that aggravates it, ie specific motions or exercises. and then advoid them. any luck getting an appointment?

julian

gfdonc
8/01/2004
5:55:52 PM
Hi again climbingjac,
Yes we met briefly at Dog Rocks that day. This was pre-Chockstone for me, so when you introduced yourself at "climbingjac" you must have wondered what my blank look was for. I mentioned Fosters .. Phil Cameron .. was playing chasey with my 4yo .. bing?
Yes I know Julian, he has been treating me for a calf injury in December, but I haven't complained about any forearm problems (yet).
How's your foot? (ankle)
- Steve (gfdonc)
jjobrien
8/01/2004
10:48:52 PM
Julian, I think I've lost the thread/logic of this conversation. Did you just say to disregard your "no crimping" advice? I confirmed the pain is on the outside of my elbow, right? Why did you change the advice? I must have missed something. By the way I'm in Melb quite a bit, how can I look up your clinic?
Julian
9/01/2004
3:49:07 PM
hey john, yes sorry about that. i made a leap from tennis to golfers elbow and didnt make it clear. the no crimping is only pertinent when the condition is on the flexor side of your forearm, ie golfers elbow. your condition is on the other side. when it is on the flexor side it typically incriminates a muscle called flexor carpi ulnaris, which is highly innervated (contracted) during crimping, as opposed to open handing. thus, if you stop crimping it goes a long way to relieving the stress on that muscle. this gives it an oppotunity to heal. do you follow? i hope this is now clearer.

if you want to make an appointment you can give me a call on 0400 201 551.

julian
climbingjac
9/01/2004
5:13:57 PM
Hi again "gfdonc"

Ah... it all makes sense now. I remember Phil telling me how I knew some friend of his. I had no idea what he was on about. My memory is shocking, so it takes me a few meetings to actually remember a person's name. I'm really quite embarrassed about it. Maybe I should take a digipic of everyone I meet, and stick their picture and name on the wall at home so I can't forget!!!

The ankle is progressing nicely, thankyou. Good luck with your ailment(s) !!

jac
jjobrien
9/01/2004
7:27:05 PM
Thanks Julian, I've got your number, when I'm coming to Melb I'll make an appointment, I'm going to see my local guy on Monday and I've told them I'm interested in an eccentric weights program, they were OK with that. I've narrowed down the most painful movement, if I were to pick up a brick,say, in a pinch grip and lift it in front of me as if I were going to lay it on a wall at face height, that would hurt intensely on the outside of the elbow. (I'm not a brick layer)

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

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