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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|If its A5 where are the bodies?
||Wednesday, 6 February 2008 At 8:40:00 AM
>Its different to a hard trad route (many
>of which must get climbed on top rope a lot prior to being led) in that
>you know exactly how hard the climbing is, and so you have a pretty good
>idea of your chances of not falling.
& Macciza replied;
>You also know your chance of falling and the consequences, and the experience of previous ascents
>The gear may be 50/50 it either holds or it doesn't - you may have tested it but it still blows
>You may be relying on technical belaying and the 'luck of the fall'
Hmm, … interesting angle there.
I often find it is the ‘not knowing’ aspect of whether I will fall that is the mental blockage component!
Glass half full or half empty thing happening I suppose ... ?
Hey Macciza, I have not climbed on Dogface but I do have a good background on Sydney seacliffs (similar sandfests in places).
Your route 'The Pecker Route'; ... is it nailed peckers, or 'clean aid' peckers ie hand placed?
Also do you know the history of who placed ('65) and who chopped ('67) the bolt ladder?
I am half interested in checking it, and also '21st Century Aid', out sometime ...
& another Q, ... does 21st C.A. finish up Colossus for it's final pitch?
Would be good if your site 'M8 - Aussie Aid Climbing' here had further info or topo of same.
Love the zoomify!
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