General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Stupidest thing youve seen?	18-Dec-2003 At 12:47:01 PM	sjm
Message
There seems to be a lot of anchor stories here, so here's mine: Climbing in the Cathedrals (Spiegal's Roof, 12m 16 - Sugarloaf). There's a line that goes past a single bolt and through a rooflet with a nice crack. The leader wasn't confident, but wanted to lead, so I soloed up, clipped the bolt, and downclimbed. He then led past the bolt, put a wire in the roof and topped out. Once past the roof, it's jug city, so he setup his "anchor" and I followed. I was horrified when I pulled through the roof to discover that his "anchor" consisted of wrapping the rope around a bollard a few times. No knots, no pro. just a few turns of friction to stop us both falling. Needless to say, I've never seconded him again. sjm

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