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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Ethics Horribilis 21-Dec-2007 At 10:50:42 PM Zebedee
Message
On 21/12/2007 qman wrote:
>"Are you wrong to chop those bolts?
>
>Should you simply leave the bolts even though they have changed the entire
>nature of the climb?
>
>What is the right course of action in this instance? "
>
>Cutting out perfectly good bolts is completely counter productive. and
>damages the route. The only bolts that should ever be cut out are those
>that are 1. dangerous. 2. in the wrong clipping location on a route.
>
>The FAist getting antsi and chopping bolts is self indulgent, "holier
>than though", arogant and self defeating.
>
>The nature, mantainance, replacement, upgrade etc of any equiping of routes
>at developed crags should be done by the stewards of an area and done in
>the best interests of the general climbing population (not the EGO of the
>FAist).
>
>Some routes deserve extra bolts to those the FA put up.
>
>In general bolts should only be used in the absence of good natural gear
>options.
>
>but why leave one natural gear location on an otherwise bolted climb in
>a sport climbing area.
>
>sometimes i think people go overboard with cleaning, bolting, "gardening"
>of new routes but i am still greatful for the effort they put in putting
>up new routes and crags. I dont have the time to put in the work they
>do.
I've posted my opinion before and for those who aren’t sick of it: For those of us that think bolting and retro-bolting can be destructive if we don't act to remove bolts then we concede that every placed bolt should stay. That is an untenable position. So if you think the bolt is unnecessary, out of character or ugly then you have to chop it. Otherwise the crags will fill up with glued in u-bolts and other atrocities at the cost of the rock. Of course 'chopping' means removing with as little damage to the rock as possible but when Knobbs glue in U-bolts then inevitably the rock is damaged whether the bolt is chopped or not.

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