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General Climbing Discussion

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The arbitrary-ness of grades 10-Dec-2007 At 11:07:33 AM bigmike

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Phantom is probably one of the bigger sandbags in the Bluies, IMHO...

The start is desperate and requires serious upper body strength esp if you're not tall. I can think of at least half a dozen times when I've given straining seconds a leg-up (actually they tend to need to stand on your shoulder as well) to get started. This normally is a way of defusing a situation in which an annoyed leader is trying to shout down complex heel-hook beta from the ledge after the traverse to some frustrated second. (actually it was thanks to getting involved in such a situation that I met my long-time climbing partner and mate "skinny" Dave, so there's an upside for you)

I think someone should fund a plaque to be bolted to the start of Phantom, which reads, "Don't try drag your novice second up here, mate!"

There again ... the "old" Pircher guidebook says something like "best climb at this grade in the area". There's always a warning in such statements I reckon.