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General Climbing Discussion

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Angel of Pain, Castle Hill 15-Nov-2007 At 4:57:53 PM skip-skip

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Just for the record, I would like to clarify my position in case Eric was referring to what I said and was offended. Eric, we all have great respect for you over here and your routes have legendary status. I did not mean to accuse you of chipping AOP but I thought that in its present state (I was last on it five years ago) it is definitely not natural. Yes, there is some “comfortising” but also the interiors of the pockets are slightly sandy and lots of brushing could alter them over time. In my experience, the natural pockets at Castle Hill do not have sandy interiors.

I am going to stick my neck out, however, and make some theoretical comments about chipping as it refers to what has been said on this post. I disagree with Cragrat that because the top mantle (the “harder” section) was not chipped therefore the bottom is not chipped. Chipping, or comfortising, is not necessarily done to make something easier, merely to connect climbing possibilities in a general sense. It becomes a really grey area trying to define the cut-off point for what “good” or “acceptable” chipping is and what is not. Eric has just said that sharp edges were removed to stop him cutting himself up and I would think that is fine. It gets done all the time when a new route is prepared. “Loose” rock is knocked off; holds are “cleaned” of dirt etc. That’s how the climbing possibility is created and I don’t think it’s much of a jump to alter things a bit more to your liking. Which, let’s be honest, is what the motivation generally is. There are precedents here in Australia that I know and, I am sure, overseas as well. No More Gaps, at Thompsons Point, has a break filled in to force a sequence and the infamous Mechanical Animals, at Boronia Point, also had an unapproved sequence removed! Even if a route is significantly altered it doesn’t necessarily detract from it. The notorious prosthetic hold on Punks in the Gym hasn’t really tarnished the reputation of the climb or people who have climbed it.