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General Climbing Discussion

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climbs that spit you off 9-Nov-2007 At 10:49:38 AM skink

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I found the start of Quo Vadis (19), The Bluffs, Arapiles really hard for 19.

I managed it clean the first time seconding it, but when trying to lead it a couple of years later... well, thought I was stronger but couldn't make the move from the initial layaway (which is also stuffed with your only gear) across onto the bulgy face bit. After a few falls I aided through, and found the rest of the climb more like a 19 to lead.

Maybe it is a bit easier if you are taller (I'm a shorty), but scary to have such a hard move so near the starting ledge, one piece of gear (not super bomber either) and the usual Bluffs ambience (i.e. sh*t in your pants exposure). And then a few metres above, a bolt which seems superfluous (good hex just above it). Sigh.

Would like to get back on it some time to try lead it clean, but I shudder inwardly at the thought of that start.

M9 - I crapped myself at the start of Scorpion, but so did my seconds and other people in our party who led it - all pretty solid at that grade. Person who found the start the easiest was the beginner in our group, a super-flexible lass who apparently styled it seconding me. But then she came unstuck climbing the crack - there is justice. Lucky I got it clean - don't have to do it again... ever (whew). Tho the crack higher up is kinda nice. Maybe I'll have to go back some time...

Also had start issues on Werewolf (19), must go back some time for that one...

And my nemesis at Araps would be Claw (18) - the 18 jam crack from hell above Watchtower Crack. Spent hours on it on top-rope after being spat out when I tried leading it... all i had to show for it were mangled hands.