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General Climbing Discussion

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Angel of Pain, Castle Hill 2-Nov-2007 At 4:41:05 PM skip-skip

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That little b**ger!! No, good work from The Dispatcher, a route that should be on every sport climbers list as a super classic. In my opinion, one of the best hard routes around for beauty and uniqueness. The route is about 10 moves all up(including mantle) and two clips that count. Long cross-over locks between one finger pockets on a 40 degree overhanging wall and a Heinous finish that is vintage V10 Castle Hill mantle. You don't have to use a rubber knee-pad to do the mantle but it makes it a good part of the story and history.

I tried it a couple of times. Came close in '93 and then no closer back in '02. Still on my mind as a must do! In my opinion it is chipped and hasn't changed since it was first climbed. It is very hard to tell though, there definitely were features there that were probably enhanced. The back-three finger pocket is the most obvious and because the insides are always a bit sandy, this is a dead giveaway that it had a little tweaking!

Now, where is my passport...?!