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General Climbing Discussion

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Easy Cracks in the Bluies 10-Sep-2007 At 5:54:41 PM mikepatt

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I'd have to say that there aren't that many 'pure' cracks in the bluies in the lower grades. Most are either corners or are liberally supplied with face holds. In fact I know of at least one climber who's led Eternity without using a single jamb.
A lot of the mountains cracks are approached with a strenuous dose of laybacking. This can be a little scary tp prcatice of lead. It's not a bad idea to second quite a few of the classics to learn the technique if you're new to the game.
A lot of the 'easy' cracks have been the scene of serious accidents and quite a few deaths.
A large rack of cams is also a good idea. You may need doubles or triples in some sizes to feel safe.
My suggested hit list would be;
Zig Zag
Winkle 12, Honey Dip 13 and the Van 16

Piddo
Bonatti Crack 10, Joseph 14 (don't bother with the top pitch) Hope (14+) Cartheginian 15.

Boyce (walk down gully) Gently Mine 14, Goldstar pitch 1, 16.

After that I reckon things tend to get a little harder and more serious.

Gates of Janus can be a scary and strenous 16.

Flake Crack has a committing layback bottom pitch (at 15)

I thought Genesis was weird and streno for 16

Psycopath is great but if you struggle of the bottom crack I suggest you retreat and come back when you're stronger. Also as many #2 camalots as you can beg,steal or borrow are a good idea.

I've yet to get up Interstate 31 clean. I reckon it's very hard for the grade.

m.