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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
John Fantini 3-Sep-2007 At 1:38:48 PM dmcg
Had John known his tenant would be a climber he may not have pulled down his carport climbing wall which I thought was a great pity as it was quite unique as woodies go and a bit of monument to his style of climbing - guaranteed to have your forearms go up in smoke after a lap of one of his ‘circuits’. Not that he was a product of his wall (for most of Johns climbing life woodies never existed) but by default it was a reflection of his own unique style and strengths.

It ran the length of one side of his (your!) carport and was slightly concave, the bottom half being vertical and the top overhanging about 20 degrees. From floor to waist height the vertical panels contained the foot holds; from waist to ceiling the overhanging panels contained the hand holds.

There were plenty of hand holds, all being very similar pieces of wood - relatively positive, slightly incut, first joint finger holds (you couldn’t rely on hold variation for any relief). On the lower vertical panel there were only about 6 footholds in the entire length of the carport, all positioned at radically different heights and all of them were either broken, spun, or at best just loose, so while traversing you were required to do long side steps either way down or way up that often left you with one foot up your arse and your head crammed against the ceiling (more than once belaying John on rock I have been swept with a wave of panic on looking up to see one of his legs had apparently fallen off - the high-step, sit on foot move being one of his trademarks).

So while being far removed from your average ultra steep power woodie, all this led to wide spanning contortions with your lower body while getting an absolute roasting forearm pump, not a power pump, but a classic finger and forearm, lactic acid, enduro burnout. Anyone who has climbed with John would straight away recognize these traits as signature Fantini.

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