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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Havachatwithsimey 7-Aug-2007 At 2:07:27 PM M10iswhereitsat.

Message

On 7/08/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>>Bomba wrote:
>
>>>the fun really starts at about 1/4 hight and gets full on at 1/2 hight
>>then backs off at about 4/5
>
>all fixed hangers and some nuts and medium cams at the top
>
>>OK... this is very important ... what grade mostly , is the 1st 1/4 ?
>
>first 1/4 felt about 20/21
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*sigh* ... this is good:-)
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>>... and wot grade is the ' cruisy ' trad stuff for the last 1/5 ?
>
>19/20
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bewdy !!
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>>What grade is the final block ...
>
>17/18 old boy crack climbing
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Hmmmm ... OK ... Might get Simey along to lead this bit , since he still hasn't climbed to the top ... Simey ! Did you climb/aid all the way when you aided the Tote ?
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>
>>Did ... you ... *ahem* ... REALLY stand on top ?... mate ... *ahem *
>
>Yeah!!! I was'nt about to put in all that effort an not stand on top!
>but it was more of a crouch and
>hanging on for dear life to my lead rope, cos the wind was gusting pretty
>hard, but on and off- so you
>could,nt lean against it or it would die down and you'd fall off!
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Exactly... thats how I imagined one would do it ...
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>
>PS: in response to some comments about a pitons in the first pitch crack,
>the vague memory of when
>I did the route both times, that there was two in the crack but I didn't
>use them as they looked so bad,
>but there are also some fixed RP's and ther junk on some Aid routes that
>go up above the first pitch,
---------------------------------
Yeah I believe this is the Spanish route...
---------------------------------
>as it wrapes around 3 different sides of the tote on it's way to the half
>way ledge.
>Also the official hight is listed as 50m the first original pitch is only
>10m in hight gain, but uses 25m of
>rope, the second pitch is 40m and has 10 FH, equipment list is 6 bolt
>brackets,
-----------------------------------
4 the 1st pitch, correct ?
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cams to #3, and 15
>draws, luckily the top anchor is now a set of rings or U bolts rather
>than the collection of manky pins
>arrows rurps and rusting shit that I had to use to create my tirolene
>anchor from!
>

Chalkischeap ! --- is all the heritage mank still there ?? I hope so . PLZ LEAVE IT.

many thx 2u Bomba;-)
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