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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Havachatwithsimey 7-Aug-2007 At 8:12:12 AM M10iswhereitsat.

Message

On 6/08/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>On 6/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>>Thx bomba ... are there good (but probably small if any ) hand holds
>at
>>each bolt
>
>Some desperate clips on the original first pitch, I hav'nt done the new
>first pitch (yet)
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What about the size , positiveness of the holds , near the bolts , on the 2nd pitch ?
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>> or are the hangers mostly a bit desperate to clip *
>
>That pretty much sums up the first pitch, then you hit the sweet trad
>crack to the halfway ledge.
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Onsight reckons there's no pegs at the crack ... I've red a report that reports pegs , and saw a photo somewhere of a peg above Steve Monks while he's on 1st orig pitch .
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>>imagines wild barn-door-lay-away, sweaty hands, fluctuating sea winds
> while trying to clip *
>
>the arete is a balancy/cruxy windblown nightmare while the sea just pounds
>away at it! (good guess)
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gulp...
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>>... just how many hangers r there ? how many brackets needed for
>>2nd pitch ? ...will 70metre rope be enuf if I'm red-pointing all the
>way?
>
>All fixed hangers on the second pitch, that helps alot !!! and the tote
>is 70m all up so your rope might
>just make it,
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No, I mean red-point as in trad-seige ! If 2nd pitch is 50 metres , and I fall,lower of at 40metres then... I wanna get to the ledge , savvy ? ... I suspect all partys who have taken falls, have just climbed back on (g#y-point ascent)
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but have you considered how you are going to get off afterwards?
>the tirolene is best!
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Nah, I wanna rap it !!!

Hey there, baby !!!
The Tote is really cool !!!:D
I wanna go with Stutang...
But that dude thinks ima fool !!!:(

Stutgang --- ura tool ! :D

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>
>>If the swell/wind has snapped the Tote off at the big belay ledge , will
>>the 1st pitch, free, still count as a free ascent of the Totem Pole ??
>
>It would'nt be the "total pole" then would it! so maybe just the free
>ascent of the "token pole!"
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LOL !!! Classic , mate !!!
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>>... I would love to visit the cape during a MASSIVE southerly ground
>swell
>>, an see the sucka throb !!! :D
>
>Is'nt ground swell an affect of earth quake?
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Errr, no. Check Goggle 4 difference between ground,wind and trouser swells:P
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>>You mentioned the Tote shudders with each wave ... I re-call the accompanying
>>sound of that as I was swimming past it , enroute to the CandleStick
>,
>>in the ' Epoch of Kim ' (1980s)
>
>the vibration while climbing is very distracting, especially when you
>stop to consider that it was not
>aways a free standing pillar, but just what is left after everything else
>has fallen away so far!
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Good geomorphilogical understanding u have , young fella !!! :-)
---------------------------------------------
>>Thx in advance 4 answering each bit of (important to me) trivia, Bomba:-)
>
>No probs, good luck, and PS don't rapp the tote!
>
>> ' Whateva floats ur tote '

Hmmmmmm