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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Havachatwithsimey 4-Aug-2007 At 2:58:28 PM M10iswhereitsat.

Message

bomber pro
15/07/2007
8:42:22 PM

On 15/07/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>> Epic stuff ...
>>
>>even getting to the top is tough, and a great achievment in itself...
>>
>>... just a little bit more beta ... plz ...

>So... both sections are graded 25, expect it to be solid at the grade, not a soft touch >19 arete with one
>tough move, can't tell you about Deep Play, looks like crimpy face climbing, prolly >sustained and
>endurance based with sequential sections, the second pitch I know well, it is >balancey, lots of slaping
>up whilst laying away on the slaping hand with feet smeared as close to the arete as >possible to
>maintain the balance, and some small holds thrown in to keep you thinking.
>the fun really starts at about 1/4 hight and gets full on at 1/2 hight then backs off at >about 4/5 hight,
>with the 1/5 top trad section being quite relaxing after the arete fun.
>the original first pitch is just full on from the get go till you reach the crack, go for >Deep Play! much
>cleaner and the bonus is that it can be done with just two of you if necesary.
>The old days a third person would throw you the trailing rope once you got to the half >way ledge (the
>first pitch used to wind three quarters of the way around the tote and would snag the >ropes making it
>impossible to trail it up for the tirolene off.
>Maybe the best beta I can give you is put the chalk bag/shoes in a plastic zip lock >untill you are safely
>away from the swell/spray zone, and bellay from a bag/daypack when you start the >climb to keep
>ropes dry!
>The most memorable sensation for me was feeling the tote shudder every single time >a wave hit, this
>gets more pronounced as you get higher on the climb!......Go for it, It's one of the >most iconic climbs
>in OZ, and like nothing I have ever climbed anywhere else in the world!

-----------------------------------------

OK ,,, thx for that , Bomber !!! ...well I put it all thru my psycho-somatic systems for a few weeks, and have decided the best way for ME to climb , especially the 2nd pitch , is to do a mega red-point ...

... climb with 70+ metre rope and LOTSA chalk ...

... climb to 1st bolt... lower off ... regardless of how fresh/pumped I am ... then continue up in this manner... maybe clip 2 bolts if I start to cruise a bit of ' soft touch 19 ' :P

... this way I can dial the route , and have a bit/lots of fun ... vsv a desperate , harrowing epic ...

Dear Simey , any idea what grade Steve thought the top block was ?

... I bet no-one has REALLY stood on top... wide-eyed bear-hug the last bit, maybe ... but STOOD ??