|The First bit of climbing seldom gets climbed or is in a climbable state! read covered in slime/seasalt,
or barraged by huge swells that come in 25 second intervals, not quite enough time to get to grips with
the slimey start, therefore most parties batman or swing in to the hanging belay at the start to avoid
the hasle of wet gear/ropes, and the slime factor.
I have freed the tote twice, the first trip with Ben Firth (canadian) I led the first pitch and Ben the
The second trip was with Tim Holdsworth he aided the first pitch and I freed the second, both times we
stood on the summit, one at a time, the final bit from the top belay is only 3/4 meters easy crack.
The third time I wanted to lead both pitches but the swell was too huge, a 50m rope is fine, as there is
a big belay ledge at half hight on the side you can't see from the mainland.
(trail a seperate fixed line from the mainland anchor to the top,Z drag it tight and head across, once
there get the second to undo the Z drag then Z drag it tight again on the mainland side, once the
second is across, then undo the Z drag and pull the rope free, static is fine)
The belay at the top was a collection of antique pitons 5 or six different types that would get equalised
to form the anchor, and some that were pinning the No Parking sign in place, now thanks to the
tasmanian bolting pixies there is an exellent double bolt belay.
the old first pitch was desperate till the easy hand crack (no pins from memory, nuts cams) that gets
you onto the ledge, slimey, bouldery, old shity carrots, the works, but the new first pitch looks steller,
more direct, less sea grease/slime being on the more protected side of the tote, ie the side that
does'nt get hammered by the swell, and as such would be dryer and less slimey.
dont stress on the bolts they are fine! it takes a long time to rust a stainless bolt even in a marine
environment, thats what they were desighned for!, sheer load is safe even if the bolt is just sitting in a
hole with no glue or expansion, they both protect the bolt for outward forces, the bolts true strength lies
in its abillity to sustain sheer loading.
Relax, pick a good day, no swell, and get an early start or camp out there, its a long walk in.
Bring a dedicated photog to present a good trip report for us to enjoy, Have a good one.