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Dear Simey 15-Jul-2007 At 3:50:29 PM M10iswhereitsat.

Message

On 15/07/2007 simey wrote:
>On 15/07/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>>Dear Simey , or Onsight , I'm gunna have a lash at the Tote this Spring,
>but would appreciate some beta first ...
>
>Gee, you've got the opportunity on this thread for me to solve all your
>love life problems and you just wanna know some boring climbing shit. Oh
>well...
>
Hey ! climbing IS my love life :P
>>... its been some 12 years since the bolts went in, in an obviously highly-metalic-corro
>ive environment (even for stainless steel perhaps )
>>
>>Can you please try to beta-ise the following :

Just a few more things, Simey in preperation for my onsight/flash :P

>Absolutely no idea, but I have asked numerous parties what their impression
>of the bolts were and they have all said the bolts appear fine. Personally
>I would be very surprised if the bolts were suffering from corrosion or
>other problems.

Anyone got any idea how many free ascents since 1995 ?

And how many wingers have there been onto any of the bolts, especially on 2nd pitch...

>The second pitch has 12mm dynabolts with the hangers sitting on the sleeve
>of the bolts.

Dynabolts... Are these expansion bollts with the plate flush against the rock face which are done up with a shifter/spanner ? If so, I believe these sort of industrial bolts are designed to hold static loads, not dynamic SHEAR loads ...

>I'm not sure what bolts Steve has placed on the new first
>pitch (which is now the standard way) as I wasn't there. I am assuming
>they are stainless carrots but I could be wrong. I know some of the bolts
>on this pitch require hangers, but I am not sure if they all do.

OK ... but what size hangers are required ?

>The length of the bolts on the second pitch are 65mm (as I recall). When
>you say 'scalloping' I assume you mean the edge of the hole breaking away.
>This wasn't an issue with the bolts on the second pitch. I don't recall
>this being an issue with the bolts on the first pitch but I can't say that
>for certain.

65mm... should be OK ...
' Scalloping ' is where a scallop shaped piece of rock rips out of the rock face , with the bolt still sitting in this ~ 6" diameter piece of rock

>>6) Did you glue-in the bolts ? ; if so what sort of glue & what does
>12 years do to such glue in a salt enviro ...
>No.

How come no glue to stop salt moisture getting into drill hole ?

>No worries. My gut feeling is that the quality of the bolts is not going
>to be an issue. And since Steve added an additional bolt to the new first
>pitch, it is now a much less scary proposition (particularly for shorter
>folk).

Cheers again:-) The photo of Steve on the ' 95 1st pitch looks fkn desperate !! ... what grade is it around the corner, on the South face and up the crack (protected with fixed pegs, yeah ?) to the big belay ledge ?

>The spacing between the bolts on the second pitch increases slightly after
>half-height as the difficulty eases.

OK ... its a VERY long pitch !!! where is the ' Gr 24/25 ' crux ... what sort of grade is most of the climbing on this pitch ... please ... ppl just rave about it being a great pitch , but how physically/mentally hard is it ... the exposure looks HORRENDOUS !!! ... and what if you fall high up ? obviously need a 70 metre rope to red point it , yeah ...

>You are in a relatively safe situation given the number of bolts below you. Don't forget >a few wires and/or cams to plug in near the top.

Well done for not bolting this bit .