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General Climbing Discussion

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Climbing in Tassie 27-Oct-2003 At 6:49:09 PM Robin

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Tassie is an awesome climbing destination. I spend a week or two there every year.

Whitewater wall is a great granite sea cliff with a range of climbs. Weather is usually reliable here. Great camping, great climbing. Harlilqin 18 is one of the best single pitch 18's I've done. The near by Hazards look serious but if you are solid on 18 Stud City is a must.

In the North Hillwood is fantastic. You'll see a write up in one of the Rock mags from about a year ago. Also there is a guide hidden out at the crag. Climbs are sports climbs packed into an old volcano crater. Long Kiss Goodnight 22 is the pick of the climbs.

Ben Lomand? Been there twice and had two epics and never got past the first pitch of a climb. Check the weather forcast if you plan a trip here.

Launceston Gorge? A bit over-rated in my opinion. Some good climbing and easy access. Much better climbing down on the Esk River. Grap Furoh area had some great climbs - Lay Down Sally *** 17, Fine Line Hate to See it Go ***20.

Hobart area: Mt Wellington is great but check the weather forecast. Usually you can see the cloud hanging over the Mt. Skyrocket ***20 great long pitch that swallows small to medium wires.

Frenchmans cap: need at least 7-10 days for this one and a lot of luck with the weather. Seriously hard walk in but worth it if you get to climb. Massive exposure, some loose rock and some average protection. Sydney route ***17 and Terrie Le Fonte***16 were classic routes. We woosed out on the harder stuff (had hoped to climb Conquistidor or the Lorax)

Mt Geryon? We had a combination of bad weather and a climbing accident so didn't do much climbing. The climbing was what could best be described as 'adventure' and the weather best described as 'crap'.

Back to the East Coast: The Totem Pole looks awesome. Saw a couple of people climb it. We climbed the candlestick which is much easier but much longer. Thought we were on the traditional route but we actually went up a newish climb called Nicoles route 18. Fantastic climb but serious for the grade. Did a great 3rd pitch up the other side of the candlestick that wasn't written up but it did have chalk on it and bolt holes at the belay (anyone know what this climb is?)

Heaps of climbing in Tassie. Great place particularly for adventure climbing, trad climbing and sea cliffs.