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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Strength/Endurance for leading 25-Apr-2007 At 6:42:44 PM Rosie

Message

On 25/04/2007 penguinator wrote:
>I recently got my lead pass for the gym, and have found that my endurance
>is terrible for hanging there while I clip. So much so, that I have found
>that I can now only lead on the very easy grades.

It is pretty normal to lead a much lower grade than you can climb on top rope.

>Are there any special exercises to help with the endurance involved in
>lead? Or will it just be the obvious solution which is to increase hanging
>endurance and just practice practice practice?

As Mousey said, relaxing is a good way to stop pumping out while placing gear and clipping. Also, I try to make the most of any rests that I find. Even on overhanging routes, you can usually find somewhere with a no hands or straight arm rest, where you can shake out your arms, even when you aren't pumped yet.