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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
looking for climbs to tick off 30-Mar-2007 At 6:09:17 PM M
Message
On 30/03/2007 phil_nev wrote:

>Beautifull Possibilities (15)

I liked this route a lot but I remember that although it is quite well protected the gear is intricate for the
grade

Choosing routes depends largely how much experience you have placing gear. most of the victorian
routes at this grade require trad skills. i have tried to suggest some routes that are fairly straightforward to
protect and are worthwhile but not difficult ticks.

Lamplighter (14) great and well protected, the cruxes are probably physcological

Supoena (17) at black Ians is great and you can sew it up, this and overkill (17) at summer day valley are
close to my favourite single pitch routes in this grade range. Overkill has pretty good protection but the
crux move has the (good) gear at or just below your feet. Also flake of fear (15) in summerday is fun but i
cant remember much about the gear. Rats tail (16) and fantasm(16) at summerday are good (IMO) but
probably not so straightforward. i really liked fantasm but the crux was low and poorly protected. Texas
radio and the big beat (17) is not too bad.
Black Ians and Summerday are also both good for toproping harder stuff.


closer to melbourne and not in the same league as the other routes
nightfall (15) and silver night (16) at the you yangs are pretty good and well protected
kents sport route at big rock (14-15 ish) is an easy one to tick off
alot of the other stuff in this range in the you yangs is pretty average or scary or both
also milawa (17) at black hill is basically a sport route (with carrots) but good fun. there is some other stuff
in this range near milawa that is OK and has enough bolts.

There are also a few routes at the cathedrals that are pretty popular. check the guide

Witch (17 ish) at camels hump is definately a worthwhile tic. it has pretty good pro with good cams at the
crux but many including me find it hard at the grade. Its pretty easy to set up a toprope on.
Poxbow also 17 at camels is good but I wouldnt recommend it if 17 was your limit

The above local areas are covered in the guides on this site.

There are 10 replies to this topic.

 

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