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General Climbing Discussion

Bouldering around Euroa

The Blond Gecko
10:03:53 PM
Driving just outside Euroa today on the way to Mt Buller, I suddenly found myself plastered to the window, drooling at the sight of fields and fields of granite boulders, with what looked like the potential for at least a few hundred quality problems. Unfortunately, most (all?) of them were on farm properties, in most cases in full view of the farmhouse, which I'm guessing puts something of a damper on the prospect of development. Are there any quality boulders in the area on non-private land?

9:34:06 AM
Get the VCC Eastern District guide. There are several obscure crags in that area which are ok to visit.
9:57:10 AM
In a really old rock article on Eastern District climbing, it was mentioned Tempest and Co did some bouldering in the valley around to the right of the Teneriffe cliffs...
1:16:15 PM
The ED guide is a good start. There is the boulder orchard and a few other spots. There is heaps of potential for both new routes and boulder problems at teneriffe. Knowing some of the locals helps as well..

5:37:03 PM
It is NOT the Eastern District guide; it IS the EASTERN VICTORIA guide. Sorry to shout but at least try and get the name right.


6:07:00 PM
(whisper) - opps my mistake. please forgive me.

9:47:55 PM
I was trying to get out to Euroa last weekend, unitl someone pulled out and plans went to shit. If you are interested in a trip out that way sometime soon, count me in..

8:07:24 AM
I was up around that area this weekend gone by. Probably about 50k south of Euroa. After driving around for ages drooling at the pretty (albeit granite) boulders, I finally had enough. I stopped the car, jumped a farmers' fence and strolled through his paddocks to a caravan sized boulder. Fortunately, I was disguised as a farmer, so it went unnoticed.

The granite was pretty good. Golden coloured, rather like Black Hill. In parts, it was really well consolidated with quite a friendly texture. In other parts it was yer usual expando weet-bix granite. The north and west faces were pretty clean, but the south faces were very lichenous.

All in all, I was pretty impressed with the quality. The boulders I saw were weathered and clean, with not too much in the way of loose stuff. Access will be the issue though... An approach would be to identify a couple of the choicest areas and contact the landowners. They mightn't understand why these skinny folks with long arms want to climb all over their boulders, but they could well give their permission. The only problem would be containing people once the 'secret' gets out. A small group of people could be quite law-abiding, but the more people come to the area, the less likely they are to toe the line.

Of course, this is coming from someone who was merrily trespassing in order to check the boulders out in the first place...

12:25:33 PM
Sorry BA,

Will make not of name in future. To everyone else, some of the access to existing climbing can be a bit tenuous, hoardes of people might not be welcome on private property, so a quick phone call or chat with the local land owner might go a long way.

6:44:47 PM
There is definitely some good bouldering at Tenneriffe. Darryl McConnell and John Laing documented (I think I've got it somewhere) some problems around the base of the Sparrow Slabs. A found some good problems dotted along the km's of cliffline, including some classic crack boulders.

The owner of the private property at the saddle has requested that no one boulders/climbs on his property due to his insurer saying he wont be covered for climbers, walkers, shooters etc with or without permission. We still have an informal access agreement where we can walk through the property to the climbs at the far end (see Eastern Vic guide for access details)

I looked for the bouldering area that Tempest et. al. described in the previous guide. I didn't find anything that looked like a classic bouldering area but there were plenty of small boulders in open forest around where he described. I think doing and documenting boulder problems at Tenneriffe, Big Hill etc will be the next major climbing development for the area.

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