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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Ape Factor 11-Oct-2003 At 7:14:26 PM (removed)

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On 8/10/2003 kieranl wrote:
>If you have a "negative" Ape factor, as I have, do you work around it by
>using better technique?
I doubt it Kieran, I think it's pure physics (the levers that Tim alluded to). The effect of longer arms is counteracted largely by the longer the lever they have to pull to reach the same point.

At least with arms there's a plus side to having them long, fingers on the other hand have very little beneficial effect (for climbing anyway, pianists and guitarists may disagree) and bring with them the same lever problems.

There's probably a good reason why a lot of the top climbers are relatively short. Gyms give a skewed version of the climbing world because of the nature of the medium.