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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Ethics versus style debate continued 4-Jan-2007 At 8:02:19 PM foreverabumbly
Message
bomber por said:I am not concerned that you failed on your top rope, but that you seem to be pleased with it, it
suggests that you think of it as an ascent, its not an ascent unles you intended to aid the route, and
were on lead. did you wish to aid the route?

I do think of it as an ascent, I started at the bottom of the wall, and finished off at the top. But I dont think of it as a pure ascent, more like when ascending an artificial wall. I am very pleased with the climb. because it helped me overcome mind games and helped me realise climbing is more than pure onsight successes, but is more about having fun. and although I failed the onsight. I had tremendous fun failing the onsight.

All you Easterners with your blutac walls, where all you need to do is throw your rack at the cliff and then clip whatever sticks. My local crag is morialta(adelaide) where the protection starts halfway up the route(on the good leads) and doesnt get much better after. Its not the place to practice falling, or for seriously challenging your leading. hense why the top roping.

bomber pro said: but I'm interested to know what makes you believe that you can now competantly lead 21 ?

Trad leading, I cant. sport or second, im happy to clip into that grade. and at the moment im dedicating most of my time in falling up some of the routes at the summit, bolt by bolt. Although I never said I was competant at 21, I said it help me push past the 18 to 20. which means im more competant in the 18-20 and now am challenging myself on the 20-23 climbs, and if i feel like I had my weetbix that morning maybe a bit higher.

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