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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
flinders blocs

bouldo
25/09/2006
1:22:35 PM
Trying to find out any info (have found a little by nick hanc--k) about bouldering on flinders island - am planning a summer coupla week trip and any info on existing areas or even better sightings of large concentrations of virginous blocage would be stupendous. additional info on cheap digs and other logistical stuff appreciated also.
cheers

Breezy
25/09/2006
1:57:46 PM
I think (???) their was an article in Rock a few years back, not so much on bouldering but routes, may be a help though.

EJ
25/09/2006
2:11:44 PM
We were out on Flinders a few years back and there looked to be some awesome granite slabbing on Mt Killiecrankie and on Mt Strezlecki(?). Not sure about bouldering though. Theres good camping at Trouser Point (BBQ and Toilets) and reasonable camping at Killiecrankie. I'll try and dig up some photo's.


nerm
25/09/2006
3:36:20 PM
There is the start of a guide here:
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Flinders+Island+bouldering
Mostly from Nick H's article. I am really keen to get some more detail about the existing problems.
Some people say he overhyped the potential just a little. (Maybe a lot)

Dave Humphries took some interesting photos of some limestone caves about half way up the west coast of the island - looked like good potential for problems but a little sharp.
I'll see if I can find them.

nmonteith
25/09/2006
3:43:34 PM
The print guide Climb Tasmania - Selected Best by Gerry Narkowitz has a whole section on Flinders
Island. It is all about the roped climbing but it certainly has good maps, topos and information about the
whole place.

nerm
25/09/2006
4:05:30 PM
You mean the Climb Northern Tasmania guide I think - the big fat blue one:


nmonteith
25/09/2006
4:21:43 PM
ah yep . Thats the one!
Darrren
25/09/2006
8:30:34 PM
I spent two months over there this summer so i have an idea

The best rock is at killacranky and the boulders there are cool and you will find jems hiddend in the trees but the scrub is tough and there are a lot of routes to do still so its not worth the skin or the effort.

Dont forget a trad rack

Remember granite bouldering is never as good as other sorts and if you want unclimbed granite boulders the Darrans has heaps that are easier to get at why not go there and the hill that was what i did with my other two months of summer.

the lime stone is to sharp it has a special name and is the sort that forms ontop of granite i say it is unclimbable, i tryed...

Flinder is araps by the sea without the crowd and a shorter trip time wise from melbourn, and it will always be that way.

Breezy
26/09/2006
8:24:58 AM
On 25/09/2006 Darrren wrote:
>Remember granite bouldering is never as good as other sorts

please explain this statement ?

To me (and many people i know) granite blocs are the best bouldering.
Goodvibes
26/09/2006
8:40:46 AM
For sure breezy, heaps of the worlds top bouldering areas are granite.

nerm
26/09/2006
9:44:07 AM
Here are Dave's photos:

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Flinders+Boulders
DaveHu
26/09/2006
10:03:31 AM
I cycled round Flinders with a school group and stayed at Trousers point which was great and Amita? about 30km from Killiecrankie. This was good and is where 'The Castle' block photo was taken (a bit high for bouldering).
A car would greatly increase the potential bouldering, there were many boulders visible from the roadside but mostly on private land and given a ratio of 100:1 visit 100 to find a good one. There is some work todo.
I visited Killiecrankie campsite which did have a shower and shop in 2004 and cost $2.00 a night (the others were free).
The Killiecrankie area looked prospective for bouldering but would require some exploration and effort.
Drinking water availibility can be an issue every where on the island.

I guess when I went I was expecting a lot of accessible boulders (roadside to 30 min from the road) but only saw a few boulders (usually on private land) in this category mainly around Trousers point.
The Limestone at Cave bay (turn right off the Trouser point road a couple of k's from the camp site). Looked spectacular with some worthwhile problems but was very sharp.
Let us know how you get on.
Darrren
26/09/2006
7:27:05 PM
On 26/09/2006 Breezy wrote:
>On 25/09/2006 Darrren wrote:
>>Remember granite bouldering is never as good as other sorts
>
>please explain this statement ?
>
>To me (and many people i know) granite blocs are the best bouldering.

I like to be able to climb and granite wastes my tips and generaly seems bad for my fingers pulling on sharp crystals i have always prefered to have lots of goes on limestone or sandstone as opposed to saving up skin to do one problem?

Sorry if you disagree i have never been to super quality area due the fact that there are routes in the world and there are nicer landings elsewhere

I think its safe to say that flinders is not the lost bouldering paradise but it certainly is the lost climbing paradise

Doc
26/09/2006
7:58:52 PM
Dave those photos make me want to pack the shoes and go for a quick trip. looks like a lovely spot. are there many problems? Could be a nice destination for a little camping and spot of bouldering.
DaveHu
27/09/2006
11:15:06 AM
It is a great spot. Climbing-wise there is heaps to do. Plenty of beaches. As for boulder problems the only ones I know of are at thesarvo.
I had a good look around the various campsites we were at and only found the problems boulders in the photos, which I was a little disappointed with, particularly the granite.

There are a huge number of possible problems on the solid limestone, which has heaps of features, usually little pockets BUT the edge of the pockets is generally very sharp. It is possible to find problems that keep shredding down to a sensible level. I found a couple of VE- V1 with the kids which I didn't get photos of.
There were also a couple of obvious problems at the limestone bay that looked hard but didn't seem to sharp.
There were a lot of places I didn't visit and there seemed like a lot of boulders about, but gaining access was problematic and I recall feeling generally disappointed with the boulders I visited (probably due to the expectations raised by the Rock article).
It is a nice place for a holiday if you like quiet, laid back holidays and maybe a bit more exploration will find the bouldering bonanza!

nmonteith
27/09/2006
11:19:09 AM
On 27/09/2006 DaveHu wrote:
>There are a huge number of possible problems on the solid limestone, which
>has heaps of features, usually little pockets BUT the edge of the pockets
>is generally very sharp.

Sharp pocket + hammer = comfort

That's what the Euros do anyway!

cruze
27/09/2006
1:18:23 PM
Plenty of comfortized and drill sized/shaped pockets around the ACT as well...

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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