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General Climbing Discussion

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Taking leading to the next level 15-Aug-2006 At 12:27:55 PM tmarsh

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On 15/08/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>CG left side was always known as the "central grade-pushing area" in my
>book.

I'm sure a lot of people share your view, given the numbers that use CGLS.

One of the things that attracts people, I'm sure, is the shortness of the routes. On reflection though I don't know that it's a good thing at all. A 10 meter grade 18 is usually going to be putting cruxy moves a lot closer to the ground than a 30 meter route. Consider something like The Stoat Steps Out. You need to be putting in a lot of gear comparative to the length of the route if this is your limit and you want to be safe. All it takes is one or two moves above your gear and you're looking at a groundfall if you come off. Longer routes that get into the difficulties more gradually are a shitload safer: the ground is further away should you come off.