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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Proficiency of beginners 23-Sep-2003 At 6:45:48 PM DC

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I agree with your second paragraph there James. It comes down to when is a beginner up to the task of leading unsupervised by an experienced climber. I believe anchors can be taught in a matter of days where there is plenty of protection possibilities. But what does a beginner leader do when the pro is less than ideal? At least setting an anchor is usually not a pressure situation, meaning they can take their time till their happy that the anchor is safe. But under pressure, seems to me, is the time that a beginner is going to get in to real trouble. This pressure can come from fatigue, mental stress or HF, poor rock or poor pro. These are the times that experience will keep a climber safe when a beginner may lose it. And for me, I was lucky enough to have experienced climbers who taught me and that I climbed with that could offer advice when I was finding my feet. This process took a few years and so I would suggest that beginners need a mentor around when their climbing for these times particularly.

One of the most concerning things for me is that people progress in strength and physical climbing ability that there is a desire to charge ahead before they have the experience to handle pressure situations on real rock. Any thoughts on this aspect?

Dave