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General Climbing Discussion

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Mount Arapiles Information Please 10-Jul-2006 At 3:43:46 PM tmarsh

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Mount Arapiles has a very similar to the sandstone climbing areas in Eastern Germany and the Czech Republic. For the most part, we use protection made from knotted slings and cord so as not to damage the rock. However, on free-standing routes it is permissable to add bolts. These are large rings on a long spike-like shaft. A small hole is drilled into the rock with a hand drill and then enlarged with a chisel and a hammer to produce a tapering hole about 20cms deep. Because the rock here is so soft, it's really quite easy to do it all by hand. The walls of the hole are then lined with strips of lead or zinc and the long bolt is hammered home.

If you have climbed in areas like the Elbanstein, you will be familiar with the sort of bolts I mean. They are made by a local blacksmith in the town of Natimuk, who is one of the few surviving bolt-makers in the country. Whilst you could get a blacksmith at home to make up your ringbolts, locals may not be happy with the decision to use foreign-made bolts. They have been known to pull imported bolts and give them to the blacksmith who melts the down into tent-pegs. But you shouldn't have to worry. You can always get the local blacksmith to make you a few bolts.

The bolting is generally done at night so that when everybody wakes up in the morning, the bolter can lead people to his new climb and say 'surprise!!'. Like opening a present on your birthday.