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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Gris Gris banned at Sydney Indoor 10-Jul-2006 At 1:44:25 PM hipster
Message
On 10/07/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>>You obviously havn't climbed much at Nowra or in the Grampians! (Grease
>Cave, Millenium, Gallery
>and Muline all involve seriously long sections of roof climbing)
Bollocks.Don't make it personal Neil, I've climbed at these places enough to know that's not true. Muline, for example, has a short roof section thru Eye of the Tiger, and Path of Yin is heinously steep wall climbing. The rest of the routes are steep wall climbing. What's more, apart from Gorilla Tactics26, all the roof climbing at these places is above 29. Now we're not catering for much of the climbing population now are we. I still maintain that the few climbers climbing these routes train on steep walls, up to 60 degrees, and not roofs.
>
>One of my pet hates in climbing gyms is being forced to top-rope the steep
>wall (AME wall at
>Cliffhanger for example). Having to reverse un-clip quickdraws is awkard
>and annoying.
But what about if this method were proven to be safer??
When leading
>if you can't clip at a stance you can run it out a little and clip at
>your feet if you have to - with stupid
>topropes clipped through quickdraws you MUST un-clip the quickdraws before
>you can climb past it.
The hooks in panels seem to work quite well and are easy to unhook on the way up/hook on the way down??
>Quickdraws are desgined not to be un-clipped - so its very frustrating!
>I would much prefer a gym that
>was lead only. In fact i would certainly pay a premium to attend one night
>a week that was lead only
>(any gym want to try this?)

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