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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Desensitizing yourself to falling... 29-Jun-2006 At 10:08:07 PM peck

Message

have taken falls on
>bolts and have no worries when it comes to bolts; but I have never been
>placed in a situation, on trad, where I even had the sense of a possibility
>of falling on my gear

Am I just showing myself to be a dinosaur, or does anyone else like the idea of being able to judge a placement and the suitable trad gear and thenmake a judgement on if it is ok to run it out above it. Ok, you don't want to do much more than put body weight on a marginal #2 RP, but a bomber # 9 Rock in good solid Araps crack.....run it out a bit.

Have always been a little bemused by the presumption that a bolt is "fixed". Do we know who placed it? Have they got any idea what they are doing? How long is the bolt? Is the glue any good? Etc, etc, etc.....

Have always been much happier to trust my own skill/ judgement (or lack there of)