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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Taipan 17-Jun-2006 At 6:30:59 PM Jonesy

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Probably wading into this fray a little late, but just to clarify, the route between invisible fist and world party was first invisaged by Crispin Waddy in early 2000. He was inspired by the first jump move off the ledge. He wanted to call it "Riki Tiki Tavi" (sp?).

I went out with him and we climbed it from the ledge and finished up the invisible fist just as shown on the topo. We did it as a top rope from the 2nd (or 3rd) bolt of world party 2nd pitch. It was an interesting move and cost me a toenail on my left foot and big bruise on my hip from slamming on the swing after the catch. Launching off the ledge sideways felt really unnatural. The rest of the climbing was really cool, but I recall being perturbed by the proximity of the other routes.

We never bothered to bolt it because of the whole "squeezed in" problem, although I remember talking to Dave J at the time about the possibility of busting thru the roof and onto the headwall, but after rapping concluded it was way too hard for the likes of me.

WM - if you've gone to the trouble of bolting the lower section, you should finish it up the headwall and make it a proper stonking line Taipan can be proud of. Otherwise it will always just be the squeezed in route....