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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Vector Forces 9-Jun-2006 At 11:09:08 AM handtraverse

Message

Paul wrote:
>The angles will increase the forces on the anckore regardless of weather
>it is a static load or shock loading. Going on the calculations above if
>you have your rope tensioned with an angle of 179 degrees that is about
>600% of your load on each anchor. factor in the strength lost in the rope
>where knotts are (20-25% for a figure eight) and the 10% safe working load
>which we like to use, then things would start to get scary even with a
>static load.

Ahh, yes, knots, I forgot about those important little things.

However, I'm not sure that the anchors in a tyrolean traverse would be feeling the same pain as the rope is. Maybe someone can clarify this point...it is a good point. If the anchors are set at, say, 20% angle or less, the force applied under normal conditions would distribute the weight 50/50 on each arm of the anchor. As the angle increases...well, you may have seen this diagram on Rock2 University of Oregon Website.

Tom