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General Climbing Discussion

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chipping pro???? 8-May-2006 At 8:04:11 PM sticky

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My two bob:

I'm presuming on a slab by chipping gear placements you'll also alter the difficulty of the climb - anything that can accept a wire can also accept a finger tip, no? Another horny ethical dilemma.

I don't see the point of altering the rock if you're not going to put in the best protection you can. As a first ascentionist, unless you're some aspiring hardman I would have thought you'd have sense of responsibility to those who will climb the route after you, given that on a granite slab you are the one who is choosing the protection, rather than the rock itself "choosing" the pro (featured rock being a different matter). Bear in mind I am neither a first ascentionist nor a hardman.

I dunno - granite slabs are always protected by bolts. The only difference is how many. Those that consider themselves keepers of the faith tend to run it out beyond all measure - see Girraween, for example; those who want to put a "consumer classic" will tend to whack a few more bolts in. Also depends on the ethic of the area - see again the drama at Girraween for an example, when the Canadian bolted a few climbs like he was back at Squamish and it didn't go down too well.

Kyle