General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Ic#ntbelieveit !!!???!!! ... (aka Hexyz E-Zine)	25-Apr-2006 At 7:21:07 PM	The HEX
Message
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ISSUE # 2 EDITORIAL : ...hehehe !!! ... very good ... ................................ ... ...THIS... is probably ' onsight ' ala MF on The Totem Pole ... ............................... ...HEXY & CHOCKSTONE ... ................................ Topic Date User to A(id) grade or not to A(id) grade Tuesday, 18 April 2006 At 10:36:19 PM M9iswhereitsat >This post is to put some kind of closure on the debate that is contained within the >thread; as the context was, what to do about aid grades (?) for the (then upcoming) >new Buffalo Guide. >The new guide (5th edition - 2006) is now published and available to the masses. >It retains the 'M' (open ended) Australian Aid Grading System, and has a conversion >chart to the 'A' grading system on pages 12 & 13. >Interestingly though, on page 103 (route topo of the recently freed iconic aid climbs), it >has a bet-each-way by listing the 'A' system equivalent on individual pitches along >with Free grades and the 'M' grades. >The guide in numerous places exhorts practitioners of aid climbing to do so cleanly, ie >hammerless, and makes it quite clear that the M grades for any given climb assumes >that they are done so in this 'clean style', unless otherwise annotated. >I applaud the guidebook authors for utilising the M system as it was intended, and >note that at least 3 climbs (possibly 4) are given the grade of M9 which is a step >beyond the previously published (as hardest established) grade of M8. >Further it alludes within one climb description that a remaining pitch is still there to be >done at a grade harder again (M10 or higher), in the opinion of its visionary 1st >ascentionist up to that point. >Climbing evolves and will continue to do so. >If aid climbing is still practised by devotees in (say?) 30 years time this benchmark >publication sets an ongoing excellent baseline for being able to differentiate the >nuances of what hard aid climbing is for then and beyond. >The corollary regarding free grades (counterpart) to that today, is that it was not so >long ago that grade 30 was barely conceivable when we were pushing the boundaries >of grade 20. >~ Likewise I predict that aid will one day extend into M20 and beyond ... ... likewise , I predict that ur daily quota of drivel/dribble will soon have you racking-up 2000 'posts' ... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ >Forum Members Currently Logged In >There are 4 registered members. Of these 0% have never posted, 50% have only >posted a few times, leaving 50% who are major posters. 100% are from Australia. >The top users are: The HEX, tmarsh >The average user is 12 years old... ...rockabye heeexxxy...and the tmaaaaarsh ! ... lalalalaaaaaaalaaaa....YAAAAAWN !!! ....BUMP !!! ********************************* ******************************************************************************************* ******************************************************************************************* ******************************************************************************************* $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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