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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Ice climbing/mountaineering in oz
tankywalrus
9/04/2006
2:52:17 PM
Err hi everyone im new.
I really want to find out about whatwould be the best time to ice climbing at Mt Buller, Mt Bogong and Blue Lake. What sort of equipment would I need? I am taking a mountaineering course with asm guides next year and the year after that (2008) I would like to plan a big trip. Any sort of info you could give me would be highly appreciated. Cheers
Willy

maxots
9/04/2006
4:57:26 PM
Probably no snow for a couple of months, and the ice will be a while after that. Have a look at the guides for bogong and buller on this site, both have some reference to seasons I think...

As for equipment, I usually don't take much as the climbs are quite short. That said I haven't been to Bogong or Buller yet (only blue lake) but If I went Id take a fair bit of rock gear and prob a couple of pitons to try and get some gear. At blue lake you would want a handful of rock gear and maybe one or two screws. If toproping (a more realistic option at blue lake) then take some big slings and a couple snow stakes for setting up anchors above the flows.

Though last season I did overnighters to blue lake, I'm set on doing day trips this year. For getting in most folks use snowshoes though we found out a rental shop in Cooma rent Skis with bindings to fit B3 rated mountaineering boots. I'm planning on getting these next year. Either way If your toproping at blue lake and doing a day trip you could bring one set of tools and crampons between you. That way you could do the walk in pretty fast, esp on skis!

If your doing multipitch lines at Buller then obviously two tech tools + crampons are a must....

some good articles on scottish stuff that are probably quite applicable to Oz winter stuff

on clothing (good bit on gloves > always a tricky one) and personal gear
http://www.psychovertical.com/?scottishwinterclothingandequipment

on winter racks
http://www.psychovertical.com/?winterrackgear

thios articles a bit sparse but has a bunch of good links
http://www.needlesports.com/advice/winter.htm

winter essentials
http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/leaflets/winter.html
brendan
27/04/2006
8:12:53 PM
bump more info : ) trying to get into some alpine climbing this season what type of kit do you guys use whats more suitable for aus weather eg leather vs plastic boots

maxots
27/04/2006
10:11:31 PM
for oz stuff you could definetely use a light leather boot, also good for Nz summer and rock routes

for nz winter/ice/big faces/multi day go for plastics...

do a search Im sure this has been discussed before....
kieranl
27/04/2006
10:23:57 PM
This a not a tip for the best time for ice, but when I was living in Melbourne and we were going up Bogong we would leave after work and then go up staircase spur at night to bivouac hut. That would put us in Bivouac hut before 1 am and give us a springboard to the next day

Richard
28/04/2006
12:51:51 PM
On 27/04/2006 brendan wrote:
>bump more info : ) trying to get into some alpine climbing this season
>what type of kit do you guys use whats more suitable for aus weather eg
>leather vs plastic boots

leather, for NZ and Oz. In both places you can end up doing a fair bit of walking ..friends I know carried their plastic boots, eg up sealy tarns, while I wore my leather climbing boots, then climbed sealy. There's enough stuff to carry with carrying big bulky plastic boots. One only draw backwith leather boots is you can't ski in them (eg with crampon compatible bindings) becuase the boot has bit to much flex in the ankle and if you fall badly does not support the ankle enough and you can brake the bones, where as a plastic boot you can ski in.... At least, that's what the guy at Bogong told me, and it seems plausible too me....So, if your going to walk and climb, get leather. If your going to ski and climb, get plastic...

NEVERCLIMBED32
28/04/2006
2:33:19 PM
Just get plastic...forget about leather particularly in NZ. The mixed routes and scree will trash a pair of leather boots in no time. If you realy think you need a second set of footware wear runners on the approach march. Thongs are always a fave to wear about the huts while you dry your inner boots out.
uwhp510
1/05/2006
11:02:18 AM
I've used both plastics and leathers in new zealand.

The plastics were dryer, but much less comfy for walking, and much worse on rock. My leathers lasted fine, with a moderate amount of moraine bashing. Of course a spangly, light weight ice climbing boot will get trashed, but a solid pair of leathers will be fine. I reckon the most popular boot I saw over there was the Nepal Extremes (which cost like $900 over there!)

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