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General Climbing Discussion

Bolting at Mt Buffalo
6:52:56 PM
For those that have been following the Bolting saga at the horn at Buffalo a good laugh might be in order. So Here Goes!
Earlier this week two Victorian Climbers actually went to the Ranger Station and asked if they could charge their Bolt Drill Batteries as they were putting in a new climb on the horn and their drill was out of power. When the surprised rangers asked if they realised that bolting was not allowed and if they had been following the issue of bolts at the horn on Chockstone with the VCC they reportedly stated that they had not heard of either, and that they thought that bolting was OK as everyone did it!
So there are some honest free spirits out there still!
What the rangers told them to do with their batteries and drill is unreported but it would have been good to have been a "fly on the wall"

12:29:31 PM
Who would be SO STUPID! grrrrrr...

12:46:03 PM
There is only a tiny group of Victorian climbers who would be bolting at Buffalo. I can't believe anyone
with even the most basic knowledge of parsk regualations would think that its ok to ask the rangers to
charge their drills. This is almost as good as the guys using a petrol drill on the boulders in the carpark
above the south side of the gorge - on xmas day.
3:52:32 PM
There is power in the entry to the Cafe near the Chalet which can generally be used discretely.

To be best of my knowledge there is no power at Lake Catani.

An inverter off your car battery is the preffered (and most discrete) thing to do.

What idiots! Bloody hell! What a lack of respect to the local climbers who are trying to maintain a
relationship with Parks and ensure the ongoing climbing access for all at Mt Buffalo.

I agree with Neil! Grrrrrr!!!!!!
6:47:56 PM
Its almost unbelievable! They must either be complete novices or are from overseas or are trying intentionally to infuriate Parks. These are the only possible circumstances i can think one could be that uninformed...
10:35:25 PM
Are you sure this isn't a troll??
The best source of power used to be power-points at the roof-line in the NW corner of the south side hut. Probably long gone but used to be used by rangers for slide presentations.

10:31:03 AM
So what is the bolting policy at Buffalo now? I thought bolting was allowed, but power drills were not (i.e. if you want to bolt, ok, but your doing it by hand).

I realize the new Buffalo guide would spell it all out, but I dont have a copy, hence the qn....
1:12:41 PM
Officially Parks Victoria has a no bolts policy. Bolting which parks at buffalo have known about and allowed (not installed by parks though) in the past has been done after consultation with tour operators and climbing clubs.
Access Ant
1:54:26 PM
Bolting to my knowledge has never been allowed by individuals. In some areas it has been approved by Parks (such as Werribee Gorge) but only with co-operation from an organisation such as the VCC or a commercial operator.

Some Rangers turn a blind eye but that doesn't mean it's allowed and in Buffalo's case it is most definiatly NOT allowed and I'm kind of horrified that some people think it is. I was contacted by the guys in question and they too thought it was an acceptable activity because without bolts the climb doesn't exist (except as a bold solo or maybe a beautiful blank bit of rock) but to rangers up there the argument is if it can't be done without bolts then it shouldn't be done at all.

Now before all you sport heads and mad bolters attack me about this issue let me say that I don't agree with the Rangers on this, but I do sometimes see their point of view (by the way I am paid to be a mediator and that involves listening to boths sides of the story).

With actions like this from some people it can be hard to argue our point effectly. I deliberatly stay out of the bolting debate because of the potental harm and repercussions it can have on the club and the rest of the climbing community.

I believe the biggest problem is that because of the constant talk about bolts and their universal acceptance by many, many of the next/new generation of climbers aren't aware of the problems (or benefit) of bolting and assume it as standard practice (which by the way it isn't, as some of us can jamb and a rare few can even place their own protection).

I don't always agree with climber's attitudes about this subject, ask Neil, he and I have exchanged quite a few e-mails about it but I do appreciate the fact that he has taken the time to listen to my arguements (doesn't mean he has to agree with them) and has enough sense not to ask ranger to charge his batteries for him.

In fact to people giving Neil grief about the "private" club of SCV I would like to point out that I believe that turned from a public forum to a private one at my request because of the perception that bolting was a standard practise that ALL climbers participate in.

There are more than just climbers "lurking" in these forums. Please to anyone wanting to bolt, do some research, ask some questions, think about it and try not to leave the rest of us to wade through the mess you've left behind!

Ant Callaghan
Access Officer VCC

7:14:47 AM
Thanks for the info Paul & Ant,

Its been 5 or 6 years since I put in a bolt, so i've obviously lost touch a bit.

There are 10 messages in this topic.


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