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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Araps Rebolting 17-Jan-2006 At 1:56:16 PM oweng

Message

On 17/01/2006 uwhp510 wrote:
>
>A flaring seam that looks like a bomber crack from below can have the
>exact same effect (eg Immaculate Deception at booroomba).
>
>I don't buy the argument of babying climbers on trad routes. When climbing
>on gear you must make your own judgements; when deciding to do the route,
>deciding how to arrange your protection, deciding to continue up or downclimb/loweroff.
> It is a VERY rare piece of gear that is so dodgy that it can't be lowered
>off if you don't want to climb above it.

Good point, even the dodgiest piton / bolt would normally take body weight, and hence could be dogged / lowered off. The real dager would be in a piton / bolt that looked ok, but would not hold a fall.