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Araps Rebolting 13-Jan-2006 At 5:37:05 PM Mike Graham

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On 13/01/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>BUT the first ascent had the knowledge of prior rap insepction, testing
>of holds, cleaning and bolting! An
>onsight ascent later on is a much better style of ascent! Repeat ascentists
>of bolted routes are usually
>nothing like the first ascent...

Neil,

I will try to casually respond to your comment. I am suddenly concerned that previewing routes has become common place enough for you to assume this is how a bold route must have been done. Knowing that you have been to a few areas in the US, I can’t quite understand how you could of missed this. There are still quite a few people that believe, myself included previewing a route destroys the adventure of even doing it. You will find me at the extreme. For example, I have never topped roped a route I didn’t lead first. I have never hung on a piece to work moves out. I would down climb a route to find a rest first…anything else isn’t what climbing is meant to be, IMO. I don’t regret the few routes I couldn’t do because I was so strict on myself. If I had done them in the method of the previous accents I would have only been cheating myself. I still today find it hilarious how people will rationalize the oddest things defending or justifying their style on their quest for the highest grade. It should be an awakening for those who draw ridicule for their actions. Chasing the numbers can leave you blind to the sprit of the climb and the community. In the end there is no respect given for trickery and friging. I’ve heard all the arguments, people likening themselves to visionaries of the new style of climbing. The “old school” sour grapes ploy. Bottom line is you can’t do a cleaner ascent than walking up to a route tying in and ending up on top first try. (If you soloed it on sight that would be the ultimate but not if you top roped it first, although still bold). Sure I have been caught up in the lust and greed of new routes, that’s when a bolt gets put in. but if you must stoop so low as to place one you should be proud of your end result. If it pisses off your peers you are on the wrong tract. You think?

Dave,

I am really glad you enjoyed RLTW and you did it the original way. I did hear through the grape vine there was some variant done, never quite understood what that meant until now. I felt there was adequate small wire placements (I was happy to find on the lead) above the last bolt not to warrant another bolt even though I had the security of a bolt kit with me. Mark had started the route and by the time I come for my second visit I was lucky he hadn’t done it (greed rears it face) when we did it I gave him first shot at it. Even though I bagged it from under him he was quite stoked and followed it quite beautifully . He really loved the whole just being there, Very talented and focused being and a good friend. His contributions there should never be forgotten or bolted over.

Simon, I hope from this rant you can conclude there was no inspection.

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Mark and myself finding some shade to climb in