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General Climbing Discussion

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Dropped Biners... 26-Aug-2003 At 3:14:27 PM (removed)

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The only time I've seen gear failure (as opposed to gear pulling) is the result of two stupid errors (and this probably belongs in the Stupid Mistakes thread ...)

(i) The cams on an an HB quadcam pulled all the way around under load as it had opened up inside a crack (they can't be used as passive nuts and I can vouch for this as I was the tool who did it). The cam flung out and cut a hole in my forehead, from where my remaining brains leaked out. The gear below me held. Apparently camalots CAN be used as passive nuts.

(ii) A friend of mine clipped a biner into a biner. Anyway, it snapped one of the biners, he ended up taking a ground fall on No Future, swallowing his tongue - fortunately his climbing knew what to do and he was okay.

Summary: I have never seen anything break under normal useage.