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General Climbing Discussion

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Araps Rebolting 31-Dec-2005 At 8:04:31 PM tmarsh

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On 31/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>Oooh now them's fightin words...

What with you being so moderate up to this point I can clearly see my mistake.

>Being in bed with all the blokes who want to grid bolt
>the crag under the pretext of safety doesn't strengthen your position.

If you only understand one thing in my posts, let it be this: I am not in favour of grid bolting crags into submission, only ensuring that what fixed gear is there is good fixed gear.

>>>Do you know Chris Shepard?
>>Yes. I even know how to spell his surname. S-H-E-P-H-E-R-D.
[snip]
> Your middle name isn't P-E-T-T-Y is it?

Toss off patronising replies and you get petty ones back over the net.

>Dragging Jules into this isn't gonna help you either. We aren't talking
>about establishing new routes, we are talking about meddling with old ones.

I'm not really sure what you're talking about. I'm talking about the concept of bolt bolted routes with good gear on them. Something I would have through was quite relevant to this discussion.

>>If that was Chris' intention in putting up MA, then
>>I agree that any 'route maintenance' should retain the original character
>>of the route.
>
>Good so we agree then.

Yep. the only thing I specifically disagree with you on is the idea that crap gear should be left to litter cliffs in some kind of 'hanging museum' (your term, not mine).

>The whole
>idea of this post was to try to prevent more of these classic routes from
>being brought down to a completely homogenized level of safety and to preserve
>some sense of history, while at the same time encouraging and applauding
>some of the excellent re-equipping that's taking place.

There are a whole heap of routes I know I will never climb coz I simply don't have the bottle to do them. And the thing is, I wouldn't want to see those climbs retroed - doing so would destroy the very reason why I would aspire to climb them in the first place. It would be like bragging that you'd onsighted Bad Cheques - on a toprope. I know there are people who want everything to be a clip-up. Don't lump me in with them.

tim