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General Climbing Discussion

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Araps Rebolting 31-Dec-2005 At 5:48:16 PM tmarsh

Message

On 31/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>Yep you are missing something - big time. Araplies is not a sport crag.
> Its proud history and heritage should be preserved for future generations
>to appreciate.

OK, so comprehension isn't your strong point. I never suggested that Araps *was* a sport crag. Nevertheless it does contain *some* sport routes. In my opening paragraph I asked whether or not Mind Arthritis was effectively one of them.

>Do you know Chris Shepard?

Yes. I even know how to spell his surname. S-H-E-P-H-E-R-D.

>Have you talked to him about the route?

No

>Have
>you seen the wicked grin and glint in his eye when he asked you about the
>peg? That piece of gear was placed intentionally and with design.

OK - this is more helpful. The answer to my original question would seem to be 'no. despite the fact that it contains only fixed gear, it is a bold, adventurous route, not a sport route'.

>More to the point - Chris Shepard is readily contactable - did anyone
>ask him if he'd mind having his route changed? Every time I've rebolted
>a route I've exercised the courtesy of writing to or calling the first
>ascensionist and asking their permission.

Can't argue with that. And I've always made sure of doing it in my limited rebolting career.

>Bullshit. There's heaps of scope for safe bolted sport routes, just as
>much as for bold routes and for both the role of fixed gear is not just
>to provide protection. [snip] These are defining moments.

What is the role of fixed gear if not to provide protection? Seriously - what is it for if not for arresting falls? My own view is stated in my previous post: if you're going to leave stuff in a cliff on a permanent basis, make sure it is safe and durable. Your reference to having to hand tighten 1/4 bolts in Yosemite is a good example. These bolts were placed because the FA was hand drilling in granite and that was the best option that could be come up with given the available technology. Hand placing pins on grit edges is in a whole 'nuther category. These aren't permanent placements (correct me if I'm wrong), but are marginal pieces of pro placed for the ascent and removed after.

A good example would be some of Julian's routes. Bold, committing climbing, on very well-placed ring bolts. The character of the route is influenced by the spacing of the bolts, but the placement itself is durable.

>Time for some bluntness. Great routes should not be soiled by a line
>of glinting rings cleaved into them by people lacking the vision and courage
>to approach them with nostrils flaring and hearts in mouths.

If the intention of the FA was to create a bold testpiece, then I won't take issue with you. If that was Chris' intention in putting up MA, then I agree that any 'route maintenance' should retain the original character of the route. My issue is with the retention of gear on the pretext of being a 'hanging museum'. In my view, it's simply not a valid reason to leave rusty metal in a cliff. Fixed gear is a necessary evil and should be limited to that which is necessary.