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General Climbing Discussion

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Peroxide Blonde banned 23-Dec-2005 At 6:44:34 PM Rooy

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For those who are not familiar with Peroxide (21) at Mt. Buffalo it is a very popular classic at The Horn. There is no fixed climbing anchor at the top of the climb and to bring up the second or to clean the pitch climbers have always used the top guardrail. On a trip up there in early December we were advised by the ranger in charge (Felicity) that we were not to climb Peroxide. She had just advise HB and his grew who were at the time on Peroxide that she would be posting a sign subsequently banning Peroxide and would have a ranger check it regularly.

In no other climbing situation have i wanted or needed to use a fixed post that was not specific for climbing, however in this one situation climbers have been doing it for decades and their is just no other way to climb it. The ranger was following park policy which we all understand but it can't mean the end to this awesome classic. Climbers need to put some presure on having a top anchor put just outside the guardrail and stop climbing it illegially.

Anyone got some advice? Paulie welcome back to oz, I noticed you've been spending a bit of time up there lately, what do you reckon?